Our Portuguese House Numbers are crafted with care using unique ceramic tile. They are then hand-molded and finished in a double-fired glaze and come in two unqiue designs, classic and Greek Key (limited edition). An exclusive collaboration with artist Riley Sheehey, the tiles are hand-painted with delicate digits, in a style that is both fresh and observant of the country’s artisanal legacy.
Riley Sheehey is a watercolor and multimedia artist and textile designer based in Virginia. She specializes in watercolor illustration and surface design. The attention to detail of her artwork evokes a viewer’s curiosity and we've long admired her work.
Installing Clay Ceramic Tiles
Installing clay ceramic tiles on a home’s exterior is all about preparation, respect for materials, and choosing the right bond. Whether your siding is brick, cement, vinyl, classic wood, or engineered wood, the principles stay consistent: build a stable base, choose the right adhesive (our customer favorites are linked below), and protect the integrity of both the tiles and the siding beneath.
- Our clay tiles are 3" W x 5.5" H x 1" D. Make sure there is enough space on your exterior to display the tile(s).
- Your home's siding style matters. See our guide on installation by siding-type below.
- You'll need two tools for this project: Notch Ceramic Trowel & adhesive suitable for exterior use. The thin-set mortar I recommend can be found here. You could also use a tile adhesive like this one or a traditional construction adhesive if your space is safe from the elements.
Installation Based on Your Home's Siding
Brick:
A solid brick surface is rugged making it a reliable anchor for our ceramic clay tiles.
- Clean and remove any loose mortar, paint, or dirt. A textured brick surface helps adhesion.
- Because brick can be uneven, ensure a flat, structurally sound surface before tiling. A cement backer board may be recommended for very uneven walls.
- Use a thin-set mortar or exterior-rated tile adhesive for flexility and weather resistance. Full coverage ensures a lasting bond.
Cement or Stucco:
These walls provide excellent support when prepared properly.
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Scrub away dust, chalk, or loose finish to expose clean substrate. Just like our recommendation for brick walls, a cement boards are often used as a rigid, tile-ready surface over cement walls if needed.
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Apply thin-set mortar evenly with a notched trowel.
Vinyl Siding:
Because vinyl is lightweight and flexible, it cannot hold tile directly.
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First, install a firm underlayment (such as a moisture-resistant sheathing or cement backer board) anchored into studs or blocking. This gives the tiles something rigid to bond to.
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Once the backing is in place, use exterior thin-set mortar to set the tiles.
Wood or Engineered Wood Siding:
Like vinyl, wood requires a underlayment because it moves with humidity and temperature.
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Add a stable underlayment (cement backer board or an exterior-rated decoupling membrane) mounted securely to framing. This isolates the tiles from wood movement and gives thin-set a rigid surface to adhere to. Ensure underlayment is flat, secure, and dry.
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Then, use thin-set mortar to install the tiles.
Tips for the Perfect Look:
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Surface prep is everything! Surfaces must be clean, flat, sound, dry, and free of loose material before you begin.
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Choose the right adhesive and aim for near-complete mortar contact between tile and substrate to avoid hollow spots and premature failure. Note: Wood-based surfaces need rigid backing; vinyl must be backed with a solid substrate.
Share your tile installation photos in the comments or leave a review on the product here!
